Soldering PECO RAIL
When running electric loco(s) with track
pickup there needs to be continuity between one section of the track and
the next in both rails. Whilst the Peco joiner is really quite good at achieving
this conductivity a fool proof method is to solder one rail to then
The Peco instructions indicate that a
small gap needs to be left between rails for thermal expansion in summer
conditions so the only realistic way to link the rails is with a piece of
flexible copper wire soldered to the rail before and after a joiner.
Assuming that you are using new rails
out of the box....
To achieve a soldered link, a soldering
iron capable of giving out about 100 Watts of heat is needed so that the
rail heats up quickly and joints can be completed before the plastic sleepers
deforms and use proper electrical flux cored solder.
It is best the apply some solder to the
rail, where the joint is to be made, in a process called "TINNING"
and to also tin to copper wire which should be of the stranded variety so
that flexibility remains.
With all parts tinned making the joint
will be found to be made so much more easily.
Assuming that you are using old rails
that have been out of the box and used as track...
The difference here is that you should
mechanically clean the rail to make it bright clean before proceeding as
above else the chance of a good solder joint is limited.
not solder across an insulated joiner else the property of the insulated
joiner will be lost.
Always carry out
the soldering in a well area and avoid inhaling any of the fumes given off
by the process. Wash away any spills especially if in contact with your skin
and ALWAYS follow the direction on the containers of flux and