When running electric loco(s) with track
pickup there needs to be continuity between one
section of the track and the next in both rails.
Whilst the Peco joiner is really quite good at
achieving this conductivity a fool proof method is
to solder one rail to then next.
The Peco instructions indicate that a
small gap needs to be left between rails for
thermal expansion in summer conditions so the only
realistic way to link the rails is with a piece of
flexible copper wire soldered to the rail before
and after a joiner.
Assuming that you are using new rails out of the
To achieve a soldered link, a soldering
iron capable of giving out about 100 Watts of heat
is needed so that the rail heats up quickly and
joints can be completed before the plastic
sleepers deforms and use proper electrical flux
It is best the apply some solder to the
rail, where the joint is to be made, in a
process called "TINNING" and to also tin to copper
wire which should be of the stranded variety so
that flexibility remains.
all parts tinned making the joint will be found to
be made so much more easily.
Assuming that you are using old rails that have
been out of the box and used as track...
difference here is that you should mechanically
clean the rail to make it bright clean before
proceeding as above else the chance of a good
solder joint is limited.
REMEMBER Do not solder across an
insulated joiner else the property of the
insulated joiner will be lost.
Always carry out the soldering in a
well area and avoid inhaling any of the fumes
given off by the process. Wash away any spills
especially if in contact with your skin and
ALWAYS follow the direction on the containers of
flux and solder.